BVLGARI X MB&F SERPENTI

MB&F AND BVLGARI ARE WORLDS APART, AND YET THEY SHARE AN UNEXPECTED CONNECTION THAT GIVES BIRTH TO ONE-OF-A-KIND CREATIONS THAT CHALLENGE HOROLOGICAL CONVENTIONS.

Founded in 1884, Bvlgari is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, innovative designs and rich
heritage, combining Italian elegance with Swiss precision – materialised in iconic collections such as
Serpenti, Octo Finissimo and Bvlgari Bvlgari.
MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) has redefined traditional watchmaking since 2005 by creating
three-dimensional kinetic sculptures for the wrist: Horological Machines that are brought to life through
collaboration with the brand’s “Friends” and are inspired by themes as diverse as science fiction,
supercars and the animal kingdom.

Jean-Christophe Babin, Bvlgari Group CEO, states “Watchmaking is all about innovation and desirability
stemming from the magical fusion of superlative micromechanical expertise with unexpected yet
stunning timeless designs.

Especially in down-cycles, brands must cross new boundaries and dare to innovate out of the box,
under the leadership of managers and designers obsessed with progress, beauty and strategic thinking
that drives unexpected initiatives.This is what we achieved with MB&F, with whom we share common
ground values.

In 2020 it gave birth to the Geneva Watch Days, the first spontaneous collaboration between
brands of all sizes and backgrounds, which is now a major event in the watch calendar.
We then released our first co-designed timepiece in 2021 in Dubai, bringing Bvlgari’s colorful gemstones
to MB&F’s Legacy Machines, fusing the best of two different yet complementary DNAs and expertise.
I am delighted to see our two Maisons unite again for a one-of-a-kind extraordinary creation, reimagining
our brand’s most famous icon, Serpenti, into an astonishing design powered by a beautiful MB&F
caliber, in celebration of the Year of the Snake.

Our collaboration is unique in the watch world because it bridges the two souls of our Maisons and
gives birth to a timeless treasure – a true collectible piece. The first-ever truly genderless Serpenti
resonates with both contemporary gentlemen and ladies. It shows that superlative watchmaking can
be generated by the unexpected pooling of talents like Max and Fabrizio.”

BVLGARI X MB&F: NOT THEIR FIRST COLLABORATION

In 2021, sparked by a chance encounter a few years earlier between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani,
director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of
MB&F, the two brands released a first collaboration: the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra. This collaboration
brought the exuberant, colourful world of Bvlgari jewellery into MB&F’s Legacy Machines.
After the success of that collaboration, the two friends naturally wondered, what next?

For this second collaboration, Fabrizio and Max chose to reinterpret one of Bvlgari’s most famous
historical creations – Serpenti, which first appeared in Bvlgari’s creations in 1948 – bringing it into the
very mechanical universe of MB&F haute-horlogerie. Combining the vision and expertise of these two
creative forces, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti slithered into being…
Reimagining Serpenti – an emblem of eternal rebirth and bold metamorphosis – into a Horological
Machine required a complete redevelopment of this historical piece, not only in terms of mechanical
engineering and movement conception, but also in terms of case design and manufacturing. The
Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti represents a unique creation, born from an inspired encounter and a shared
vision, where calibre and design seamlessly enhance one another.

AN INTENSE DESIGN PROCESS

According to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the design aspects “were a pleasure to create”, perhaps
giving the impression that this part of the process was relatively easy – but the hundreds of
sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models attest otherwise. Contrary to a classic round case, which
offers only a few dimensions to experiment with, the case of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti could not
be more complicated. Like an automobile, the view is radically different depending on whether you
admire it from the front, the side, the top, the back… and all those views must be equally satisfying.
Like a carefully-balanced equation with multiple variables, any adjustment to a particular angle or
curve, although improving a certain view, can potentially destroy another. This resulted in countless
iterations of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti design.

CHALLENGING CASE MANUFACTURING

Once perfected aesthetically, the design then needed to be engineered and manufactured – and this
generated a number of further challenges. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti case is all about curves,
combined together to create a machining nightmare. The complex curves extend beyond the metal
of the case to the five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and the multi-facetted rear
section – all treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides and providing large openings on the
movement. This combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only extremely difficult
to machine and finish, but also incredibly challenging to make water-resistant to 30 metres.

“At MB&F we specialize in ‘kinetic sculptures which give time’ so it was definitely our calling.
Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the
case but also the movement,” shares Maximilian Büsser. “The intricate case is entirely machined
with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated
to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a
water resistance of 30 meters”.

A COMPLEX MOVEMENT THAT BREAKS HOROLOGICAL CONVENTIONS
Inside the complex case, an equally complex movement that breaks all traditional watchmaking
conventions, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F. From the beginning, one of Fabrizio’s
central ideas was to bring Serpenti to (mechanical) life by animating its eyes; this has been materialised
as revolving hour and minute domes, the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the
right one in 60 minutes. The paper-thin domes are machined from solid aluminium to make them
as light as possible, requiring innovative milling processes. Both are adorned with hand-applied
Super-LumiNova, so that when darkness falls, the luminous gaze of the snake’s eyes persists.

The mechanical reptile’s brain is symbolised by the technically challenging, oversized 14mm flying
balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws, beating at the traditional rate of 2.5Hz
(18,000bph). It is firmly held in place thanks to a three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the two
partners’ names. Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, incorporated in the
rear lugs of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti.

Flipping the Machine over reveals the power reserve indicator, along with some of the other 310
components of the hand-finished movement. MB&F is one of the few remaining brands to uphold
artisanal manufacturing processes and to finish components by hand; an approach only possible
when crafting a very limited number of watches per year (just under 400 in 2024). The watchmakers
at MB&F can only craft and assemble six to eight Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per
month; the 99 pieces will require over a year to deliver.

Watchmaking experts who have been following MB&F will recognise some of the unconventional
features of the movement. These are the result of expertise patiently developed across the more
than 20 calibres created by MB&F since 2005 – in particular the manual-winding HM10 movement,
although significant modifications were required to serve the sleek new Serpenti design.

AUTOMOTIVE TOUCHES

In addition to its obvious Serpenti origins, this unique new series reveals another source of inspiration
for its two creators. Both Fabrizio and Max are car design enthusiasts and grew up with the
same automotive references. Initially, there was no plan to incorporate automobile design codes
into the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti, but there is no denying the influence that has seeped into this
new creation: a case that resembles sleek automotive bodywork, a complex “stepped” sapphire crystal
shaped like the flaps on the rear window of a sports car, crowns that could easily be mistaken
for car wheels… The apparent portion of the movement also includes car engine-like components,
including a grille with the famous hexagonal scale motif seen on previous Serpenti creations.

THREE LIMITED EDITIONS

There are three different versions to choose from, each limited to only 33 pieces. The first comes
in a grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes. The second is housed in an 18K rose
gold case and features piercing green eyes, and a third version is crafted from black PVD-coated
stainless steel and comes alive with vibrant red eyes.

“This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce,” says Fabrizio
Buonamassa Stigliani. “The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent
object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new
horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical
object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations,
it is a win-win project.”

MB&F and Bvlgari have come together to create a unique and groundbreaking snake that is sure
to captivate watch collectors: with its striking design and innovative mechanical engineering, the
Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti invites those who have long admired this mesmerizing creature from afar
to finally embrace its power.